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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. But, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.